Disappear in Sapelo - Day 3 - Eagle Island

An exciting day coming up -- we venutre off  Eagle Island (the back barrier island) and tour the inhabited barrier island of Sapelo. 


Andy is taking us to Sapelo Beach where the Gullah community is in full force and Gee-Chee is the language spoken within the community.

Andy is picking us up this morning at 9:30 sharp.  Today we will need a picnic lunch, walking shoes, a bucket (I wonder what that is for), bug spray, and a sun visor. 

Meet you at the dock!

Here comes Andy with his customized 38' Sea Hawk.  The perfect boat to transport guests and have room for luggage and movement.  We are excited, aren't we? 

As we push away from the dock, Andy tells us about the islands we are going to visit today. Sapelo, Wolf, Queen, Little Mick, and Jagger.

First up, we circle around and about weaving through these hidden islands.


Wolf Island and Queen Island are new to us today.

Queen is the only island that is on the ocean with a beach made of white sand and shells. 

Can you imagine having a wedding on 'Queen' Island.  How perfect is that! 

Your own island for your own private wedding. 

Andy says the weddings held on Queen Island are like a fairytale for the wedding couple. 

Entering back into the intracoastal through Doboy Sound we run parallel to Sapelo imagining life on this barrier island with only a ferry boat providing transportation to and from the mainland for school and shopping. 


The Gullah communitiy on Sapelo consists of approximately 50 people - the rest of the island is owned by private individuals.  The owners, like Andy, of property on Sapelo leave another vehicle on the island to use when they arrive.  The 'only' way to get down the trail to the Sapelo Beach. 

Before we dock and head to land, we cruise the edges of the islands where we see 'Shanty Ruins' barely standing reminding us of the planation times on these islands. 


Thomas Spaulding, one of the first and very respected plantation owners in this area is responsible for the growth and much of the history of the island. 

The recipe for 'tabby' siding was invented here - a mixture of shells, water, and lime - and used with a plank board to cover the sides of the slaves little shacks on Little Sapelo Island.

Much anticipated arrival!  SAPELO!  (the island referred to in many Eugenia Price historical novels!)

Picking up the truck awaiting the day's guests, we load up our beach items and hit the road.

First stop is the historical lighthouse, built in the 1800's, at the south end of Doboy Sound.  The lighthouse is no longer in use, but provides a beacon for the boaters and can be seen from Queen Island, Little Mick Island, and Jagger Island.






Curving around the dirt roads and deeper into the island sanctuary, we arrive at the  R.J. Reynolds Mansion, built in the 20's and now being used for the University of Georgia Marine Institute. (not a bad gig)   Here on this isolated island, Lindbergh would fly in on his private plane and visit his friend at the mansion.  How did they know about this island and I've just learned of it?  The mansion itself is used for high level Board Meetings, Weddings, and group rentals.  They'd never find us here!

In a hurry to get to the beach on this gorgeous day, we scurry along.  The only paved road which circles the island is called the 'Audobon.'  Off of this road juts unpaved dirt roads and trails with interesting names -- Dump Road for one and Nanny Goat road takes us directly to the secluded beach - for private owners and community only.

Talk about untouched!

A beach running the length of the island and loaded with shells of all kinds inlcuding the local 'welk' shell. 











 

Here is this 'welk' shell that I brought home with me - this little guy found a home.  I didn't know he was there until he fell from the ledge of my fountain into the fountain itself. I wondered how the shell did that and I picked it up - low and behold - Mr. Crab was a stow-away.  He now lives in the waters of Ponte Vedra Beach!

Let's have lunch and then split up and take a couple of hours to walk this pristine and undisturbed beach. 

We are ALL ALONE!

We can investigate and collect the different shells, search the dunes for lost articles, relax on the soft white sand, find unusual driftwood, and take pleasure in this 'hidden treasure of an island.'

The time flew by and here we are with our 'finds.'  (You, Me, Andy, and another writer)

Time to get back to Eagle Island before dark.  The hike back to the car is bittersweet.  Eager to continue our journey, but hard to give up this moment where we are 'lost at sea.'

Our return to the dock takes us past the little community grocery store, that says 'OPEN,' but nobody is there right now.  We missed the opportunity to purchase the local goodies, but now have a reason to return. 

Dusk is closing in and so are the 'no see-um's' -- back to the truck and on our way back to the dock where we drop off the truck until the next group of guests escape to the island.


A beautiful return boatride to our 'home away from home - Eagle Lodge.'  We are glad to be back to sort through our goodies and collect our days memories. 


The crab trap provides another scrumptuous meal as we learn the 'island-way' to crack and eat!

A sunset is close to greeting us, so let's scurry to find our favorite spot. 


I'm back in the jacuzzi with a glass of wine and the fire warming the porch.


The Island is seeping into my nature.  Do you feel the veil?  The veil of understanding.  Have you gotten it yet?  Do you get it?


Has the island covered you with it's softness until you become one with it's island sounds and rhythms.


This is where urban meets nature and hands over the baton. 


This is where the technology age can be connected, but quickly loses it's attraction.  


This is where you can 'sign on' to WIFI and  receive a cell call, but don't feel the need to 'connect.

 This is where you the only thing you want to connect to is the land and yourself. 


This is where you Refresh, Reflect, Rejuvenate, Regroup, Reconnect, Relax and Re-love.




If Heaven is an Island - it must be Eagle Island - and we are not yet ready to leave this magical place.


Goodnight! See you tomorrow morning - our last day in our paradise.

I Must Be Dreaming! Eagle Island - Day Two

Oh, hello again!  Excuse me while I wake up a little.   

(stretch ......yawn ............stretch  .............. yawn  ...............Stretch!)

 I must have fallen asleep on the porch hammock.  Where were you? Waiting for me?  So sorry for the delay.  Now, let's see, where were we?

Oh yea!  Mornings. 

I've always loved mornings and now I will have this morning's memory on Eagle Island to recreate when I want to gently awaken and feel alive.  So far, it looks like a 'keeper' for sure.  The 'mornings break golden' here on Eagle Island as a previous guest commented.

The porch fireplace is roaring with the chopped wood provided by Andy.  The rockers are pulled 'up close and personal.' 

All my senses are being fed as I take notice of the sound around me. 

I feel the warmth of the fire's flames as I cuddle in the rocker with my Eagle Lodge luxurious bathrobe,

I smell the aroma of the dew mixing with the island's natural seasonings feeding the ground plants with moisture and energy,

I gaze through the enormous live oaks and over the marsh grass enjoying the splendor of the sun rising to greet the day,

I hear the wildlife as they also begin to stir and move through the woods rustling the dried leaves and stepping on tree branches, and best of all,

I sip out of sturdy mugs and taste the freshly brewed coffee made with the island's clear water. 


All of the sounds are musical and the vision is calm. 

 I remember to Stop, Listen,  Enjoy.



It is difficult not to wonder what the rest of the world is doing.


Are they enjoying this present moment and soaking in their surroundings?


Are they allowing the noises and bustle to keep them from really appreciating their moments in time.


Here on Eagle Island, the stillness and the quiet is a gift.  It offers us a chance to remember what it is like to just be with ourselves and with our own thoughts.  To get to know the connection between the mind, the body, and the spirit.


As I get lost in the rhythm of the island, I spot an assortment of wildlife and birds.  Over 50 species have been spotted here along with a variety of animals. Wild Boar, alligator, snakes, dolphin, otters, frogs, and the famous bald eagle inhabit this island. 

Watch!

Now that we are awake and relaxed, let's change into our fishing clothes, grab another cup of this divine coffee, and head to the pier for the 'catch of the day.'  

A lovely swing is perched on the pier for an even better view of the marsh and Catfish Creek.  A nice picnic table with umbrella invites us to lunch there later, possibly with fresh catch. 

Before we throw our line -- look!  There are two crab traps next to the dock - let's pull them up.  Ah, we are going to have crab for dinner!!!! Nothing like living off the land!

It's easy to stay and fish all day at this perfect spot overlooking the marsh, IF you remember the tides.  Unfortunately for us, we hit the pier just as the tide was going out.  It was rushing out so fast that our lines were almost in Jacksonville when we decided we had timed it wrong.  Remember -- it is the tides, not the time that rules Eagle Island.

We'll come back later -- we did learn another tip.   (Eagle tip -- best time for fishing -- 2 hours before and 2 hours after the tide goes out.)  Now they tell me!


We need to get ready anyway -- the day is full of activity.


Good thing we had a hardy breakfast, because Charley, from SouthEast Kayak Adventures, is on the way. 

He'll be here at 2 o'clock for the guided kayak tour of these marshes along and around the creek.   This kayak tour is 'a must' since this area is a kayakers haven.

 You can always bring your own kayak and tour by yourself, but Charley knows all the birds and has an eye for spotting alligators; and we all know how important that talent can be.


Meet you at the dock with flip flops, sunscreen, layered wear, and a water bottle!

Right on time, Charley arrives.  We only need a few brief rules on rowing and safety before he nudges our kayaks into the water to begin our tour.  We are 'up a lazy river' (or creek) in no time at all.

Moving in and out of the marshes along Catfish Creek, is 'smooth sailing.'  This is the perfect way to explore the waterways and peer at the different creatures lurking and relaxing in their land where no disturbances interfere with nature and quiet is the norm.


Andy told us that in the near future, several of the other islands, Mick Island, Jagger Island, and Little Mick Island will be private kayaking adventure islands with campsites, picnic tables, chicki pads for tents and small huts for overnighters. 

A true campers delight and only 6 miles from Darien, but as close to nature and complete privacy as possible. .


Upon the return from kayaking (Eagle tip: get right in the Jacuzzi to soak your muscles and watch the sunset), a nice double headed outdoor shower awaits us after our jacuzzi.  The shower even has a sink and mirror and it is all completely private.......need I say more?


Goodness, I've worked up an appetite.  That bushel of oysters that Andy provided is ready to be steamed, grilled, shucked, and even enjoyed 'in the raw' - oysters that is!

The oysters are fresh and purchased in East Point, Florida around Appalachiocola.  


Andy is so customer-service oriented that he will order them for the guests and deliver them at no additonal charge. (Eagle tip: of course, if you want to give  up some of your privacy, Andy can send a cook over to prepare your meal and do your oysters while you relax.)


Are you enticed yet?

With no way to top that meal, we settle into our favorite spots on the porch, the dock, the picnic tables in the yard, or the swing by the pond and watch the sunset allowing rest and relaxation cover us as the evening chill arrives. 


The live oaks filter the setting sun offering a unique scene to add to the many memories and a 'kodak moment' for our photographers to share with the folks back home.


A glass of wine tops off our evening as we chatter about our busy day and all that we've seen and learned.   Mmmmmm. 


See you tomorrow. Day 3 on Eagle Island is coming soon.

Day One - Eagle Island - A Relief!

 

Come along with me as I take you on a trip to The Private Islands of Georgia .....

www.privateislandsofgeorgia.com).

Be my partner, my companion, my friend, my buddy for the next three days. We'll experience this secret hideaway together.

I promise you a Five Moon Get-Away....better than a resort...Eagle Island Lodge is 'a Relief.'

Andy Hill, owner of these 7 magnificent private islands and 2 companion lodges on the mainland, assures me that we only need the basics, everything else is provided. So, pack your favorite vittles and drinks along with shorts, t-shirt, sweatsuit, toothbrush, camera, walking shoes, bathing suit, visor, and sunscreen…….and, we’re off.

For us Jacksonville folk, our journey begins on Interstate 95 north for an hour and a half when we arrive in Darien, GA. Heard of it?  I had only seen the name when zooming past it on the way to Savannah, but not a place I would think to pull off and visit. Aha! That begins the mystique and the secret of these private islands. Today, I not only stop, but am promised my life will take on new meaning in just a few hours.

Our destination is Eagle Island, the main private island with the others being: May Hall, Little May Hall, Mick Island, Jagger Island, and Grassy Fields Island.

Eagle Island, 10 acres of old coastal Georgia, preserved by Andy, because he is a naturalist and a believer in old Georgia.  Andy also is happiest on the water and brings that option to us.  His vision is to offer a pleasure island, of sorts for our enjoyment, relaxation, weddings, anniversaries, birthdays, reunions, nature events, private gatherings, retreats, vacations, boating, kayaking, and so on and so on.

The value of visiting these islands begins with Andy meeting us at the Darien boat dock where he loads and unloads our goodies and backpacks. From that point, we are carefree souls open to this new venture. We take off our watches as Andy pulls away from the dock and leads us into and around the marshy waters off of the Darien coast. From now on the only time to watch, is Eagle Island time. Eagle time is determined by the tides – just low and high tide is our concern - not the hour or the day, just the tide.

Ten minutes later, we arrive at Eagle Island’s boat dock where Andy leads us up the pathway, through the natural habitat of massive oaks heavily laden with Spanish moss, pines and palm trees standing tall, and the elms providing a shady path to the Lodge. An easy walk over the oyster shell path and then, The Lodge appears in front of us.

The Eagle Island Lodge greets it’s visitors with open arms. A two-story cabin with a 360 degree view of this magnificent land. The screened porch encircles the second floor providing a different view from all directions.

Sitting on the swinging bed on the southend of the wraparound porch, I look out onto a pond, perfect for children to skim rocks, look for little fish, or to view the reflection of the island in its mirror-like luster as the rising sun provides the reflective light.

Two horseshoe beds at the edge of the pond, assure me of a little healthy competition later in the day. A wooden swing on the opposite end of the pond is the perfect spot for the onlookers as they cheer for their team.

I spot a trail leading out into the woods. Let’s see where it goes.

Are those fresh boar tracks I see? Andy says, they inhabit the island, but not interested in us at all. Okay, I trust this man, so my thumbs up gesture means….we’re movin’ in.

Deeper into the island’s trail we walk, over shell mounds and wood planks, raised roots and marsh mud. Listening closely to the island sounds. New sounds and just a few sounds; quiet is the only pulsing sound. Birds freely singing, yes. Breezes softly swaying the palms, yes. My breathing, yes.

And, that is it.  Quiet, complete quiet. Privacy, complete privacy.   Oh, how different. Oh, how grand!

As we continue on the trail, we stumble upon oyster shell mounds and uprooted areas.  Could they be native burial grounds or the remnants of bonfire pits of days gone by?  As a prior guest writes in the lodge's log, 'you must stop and listen quietly to shake off the drum beat of civilization and transition back through the ages to hear the shouts of the raftmen as they guided their knotted logs through the river channels to the sawmills.'  'Do you hear the captains bark order in loading their ships.'    Listen!

We arrive at the south end of the island. A hammock awaits. Oh, just in time to relax a spell before we go on. I listen, sleep, and dream. Mmmm. I know one day soon, a family having a reunion will visit this lodge. They will find this spot. The teenagers will pop their tents here and have the time of their life, camping on this private island as if running away for the first time.  They, too, will hear the indians drum beat!

Andy says that just across from this spot, Mick Island and Jagger Island, will soon house chicki huts along with their picnic tables allowing campers to visit year-round. Jump in a kayak, your's or Eagle's, and within moments you are setting up camp at Jagger Island.

Time to weave back to the main house taking the exit trail back to the pond location.

Now, I don’t know about you, but that was my kind of hike. Flat land, just the right trail length, and no way to get lost. If you want more than that, there are 10 acres to choose from in the next couple of days. Keep me posted, will you?

(oh, yea, Eagle Tip of the Day:  Be aware of the tides when out hiking on the trail.  They come in fast and furious.  One could get out on the south tip and have to 'wade' out their return.)  Not that I experienced that first hand or anything :(

By now, our travel items are delivered at the house. Let’s go pick our bedrooms. There are four bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. As goldilocks said, I need to find one that ‘feels just right?’

Starting from the top, we have the loft bedroom with an adorable desk/vanity and king size bed and spiral staircase leading from the living room to the loft. On the main floor, we have 2 bedrooms with king size beds. All 3 rooms share the main house bathroom which has a beautiful tiled walk-in shower stall and vanity.

Looking for even more privacy? Out the front porch and down the stairs, the entire bottom floor is another ‘apartment’ / bedroom. Two sets of bunk beds and a queen bed along with a ping pong table, dining table, TV area, laundry room, and full private bathroom. Ok, that helps me make my decision. I’ll take the bottom floor, you can have your pick upstairs. They are all so special. With all these options, Eagle Lodge could really sleep at least 12 individuals who know and like one another; or, a couple and 4 kids downstairs, and 3 more couples or 6 kids upstairs. Be creative, customize it to your individual needs.  Oh, did I say, there are also 2 queen roll away beds. 

At Andy’s recommendation when reserving the island, we are prepared for a low-boil feast tonight. Andy’s Eagle Island recipe with special seasonings is on the website for our use and I highly recommend it.  Andy and David Goode create a spectacular feast.

Using the downstairs (under the main house) summer kitchen, we start meal prep.

The large pot is boiling on the gas potboiler, the corn on the cob gets cleaned and cut in two, the large onions get peeled, the sausage is cut into bite-sized pieces, (Eagle tip: if you add two kinds of sausage – hot and mild – to cut them in different angles so you know what you are getting,) potatoes are chunked, jalapeños are sliced, and the whole shrimp are ready to add. Check out the web, for Andy’s special rue making this a Cajun country Low-Boil feast.



Within an hour, we are full to the brim and our taste buds satisfied. We relax by the raised-hearth fireplace in the living room sharing stories.


I brought my drums with me, so why don’t we find the island’s night rhythm. Boom, boom boom, Boom, boom boom -- Lub Dub, Lub-Dub, Lub-Dub.  The heartbeat rhythm allows us to soak in the pleasures of the day as we attempt to keep our eyelids open for just a minute more. We are very relaxed. See you in the morning.

Night, night.......

Crazy Fish Kayaking

The wind didn't blow this day away and it was Ships Ahoy at 10AM at Crazy Fish Kayak last Friday.

A group of 12 women, including me, from the Beaches Newcomers Club, slathered with sunblock and prepared with bottled water and sun visors, took to their kayaks and 'headed upstream with their paddles.' A gloriously warm April day in Jax Beach and the calmly rippling waters of the intracoastal were all we needed to continue our adventure.

Crazy Fish Kayak is located on the backside of the marina on Beach Boulevard (before crossing the bridge and across the waterway from Billy's Boat House) in the old marine patrol building at 2510 2nd Avenue North. Josh Schrutt is the owner of the business. Crazy Fish is about food and watersports and besides the hot menu there's Italian Ice and gelato, snacks, and beer and wine. Josh also has many subcontractors who will teach water sports of all types, will do fishing charters, and he sells limited gear such as life vests. It's a little hard to find, but worth it when you get there.

Josh had our colorful kayaks laid out and ready for us when we arrived. After selecting the color and style of our kayak, we loaded our day's necessities into the 'dry storage bin,' and carefully stepped aboard. Slowly, Josh nudged each of us into the awaiting waters of the intracoastal. With our paddles in hand, we quickly found our balance and the paddling began.

With the tide as our timekeeper and Maureen and Marie as our guides, we began paddling under the bridge and around the wetlands within a mile from the marina. With many of us first-timers, we stayed close to home this time -- but once we embarked, we entered another world of calm and relaxation. Going with the flow, we alternated paddling to keep up with the group and then relaxing and letting the tide take us along the marshes and into the homes of the birds, snakes, and alligators. (ok - we only saw birds this time)

The time went by quickly and as the current turned against us, we headed back to safe harbor, a little tired and a lot hungry. Fortunately, there was a table with an umbrella to shield us from the sun as we enjoyed the fresh catch of the day in the little restaurant at Crazy Fish as we overlooked the quiet marina.

We all agreed, it was the perfect end to a perfect day!

Bon Voyage - til next time!

(Side note: our fearless guides Maureen and Marie are now working at Crazy Fish doing guided tours!)

Always Have Plan B

Kayaking........the plan for the day.

I was ready and rarin' to go on my maiden kayaking voyage today with a group of women from the Beaches Newcomer's Club when I received the dreaded call. The winds! What is it with me and Mother Nature this month? Her winds have blown all of my outdoor adventures right out the window, leaving me with my backpack loaded and my enthusiasm unloaded.

This calls for a Plan B to be a necessary element for my plans from here on out. Plan B needs to be easy, flexible, and attainable in a moments notice. So here are some ideas - Pay those bills that have been stacking up, wash the car, clean the house, answer your emails, and so on and so on! NO! Please, let Plan B have at least some adventure to it. Okay, let's try again. Walk to the beach, walk on the beach, take a bike ride, take a road trip, get a massage, or get a mani and a pedi. Even better, walk outside and enjoy your garden, your neighbors garden or your backyard and / or pool. Sit and mediate on your good fortune and be thankful we have this day. How about planning your next trip. Kayaking next Friday when the weather is improved!

Whatever it is that we select -- we know that a Plan B is important, especially in Florida where the weather can change drastically. Try being out on a boat when one of those dark clouds appears out of no where - now, that isn't fun at all.

Next week, I hope to have a great story about my kayaking adventure. Until then, keep a plan!